Most Americans have never been to Vietnam, but our narrative around Vietnam typically derives from stories of relatives who fought or died in the war, or movies like ‘Platoon’ (or even ‘Good Morning Vietnam’) depicting a war torn country. When I got back from my first trip there, many people asked if the Vietnamese were angry or bitter about our involvement in their history. Surprising to many- the answer was a resounding “No!” The Vietnamese people were friendly and engaging, with no resentment or anger. Thy have a sense of pride about 'The American War', which is a totally unique perspective that most Americans have never considered.
The Vietnam I experienced is far from the war torn imagery of the 1970’s. Instead, I found a magical and unique country, blending the ancient world’s traditions and history, the modern world’s fast pace and global perspective, and a bit of fairy tale mixed in.
Perhaps nowhere in Vietnam is this more apparent than in Hanoi, where sleek, luxurious hotels and modern restaurants are interspersed between centuries-old buildings and tenement blocs housing family-run businesses managed down through generations.
In the fast-paced metropolis of Hanoi, crossing the road on my first day in town was as difficult as understanding the Vietnamese language. I’d heard the traffic in Hanoi referred to as ‘motorbike madness’, and that’s an understatement- with pedestrians, cars, bicycles, and motorbikes all weaving through what seems an impossible network of lawless intersections, the streets of Hanoi can be exhilarating (and intimidating)- crossing the street is a cultural experience. Hanoi is a loud, and energetic city where everyone has somewhere to be, and yet- surprisingly- you can still find quiet walking streets and lakesides where locals and tourists alike take a stroll amongst ancient temples and garden pathways.
After some time spent in Hanoi, getting into the rice paddies of the countryside is a literal breath of fresh air. In the areas around Ninh Bihn and Ha Long Bay, the beauty of the karst rock formations jutting straight up from the flat rice fields is truly fairy tale material.
A few days spent in the Vietnamese countryside is like stepping back in time. I remember hearing the bellows of the local carabao (water buffalo) and the birds chirping in produce trees as my local guide pointed out edible plants that were cultivated along the road. Dogs ran from home to home while families gathered in their open-walled homes for a meal together. In small villages, they still use traditional methods for crafting and harvesting- it’s fascinating to see those methods in action, including processing rice and other produce to eat, weaving reeds into mattresses or boats, harvesting indigo for dye, and various traditional crafts passed down from generation to generation.
Before I experienced Vietnam for myself, I had no idea what to expect. The sprawling temples, traditional handicrafts, tranquil countryside and positive vibes from the locals made me want to go back again and again to see, taste, and discover more. I can not wait for the next time I touch down in Hanoi, find one of the many cafes in the old quarter and have myself an egg coffee, banh xeo (vietnamese pancake) and fresh dragonfruit while watching the traffic go by. I sincerely hope you are there to join me!
-Kristin M., F4A Vietnam Lead Guide